Saturday, February 9, 2008

surf s up...



i have been asked for more surf pics... the thing is that it is a bit hard to capture myself on film when i'm in the water... especially when the conditions are good... but sometimes everything comes together... right time... right place... in this case the waves were firing for as week... and i met three south african surfers documenting their journey accross west africa... www.africansurfers.com ... they took some surf shots from their house in the distance... and even if it was far away it gives a good idea of how good it can get around here... i have surfed this place alone many times... on bigger swells... i love this spot... merci et bon voyage...

last news: i just broke a couple ribs on a bad wipe out on this spot a couple days ago... so i will be out of the water for a little while... i guess that s the price to pay sometimes... it s a long swim out of there... it could have been much worse...